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GWL Day 1, Roma Montefalco (UMBRIA) (231 km)
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Location: Blogs Antonio Mauriello Visiting Italy as a Tourist |
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| Posted by: Antonio Mauriello |
5/25/2004 6:54 AM |
The king of the tannins: Sagrantino di Montefalco. A nice 2-hour drive from my parent's home in Ostia (20 km from Rome on the Tirreno sea), brought me to the heart of Umbria. My first itinerary was "La strada del Sagrantino" ("The road of Sagrantino") a beautiful country road leading to the citta' del vino (wine town) of Montefalco. Montefalco is known as "La ringhiera dell'Umbria" ("The railing of Umbria") because from every part of the Umbrian valley, one can see its hills, which rise overhead owing to their unique and privileged position.
 There we go: a great region, a great work of art: the "Sagrantino di Montefalco", one of the 2 DOCG of Umbria (the other is Torgiano) which is a powerful "elixir" ready to match the best "arrosto", "porcini" mushrooms or tartufo (truffle) very typical of the area. The Sagrantino is a local grape with a dark thick skin and resistant to cold temperatures. (...I wonder how it would work in our harsh Canadian climate...). It is the only grape used in the Sagrantino di Montefalco denomination. Also produced in the area is the "Rosso di Montefalco" containing max 15% of Sagrantino grape. The rest is Sangiovese, Cabernet, Merlot or other grapes. There are lots of differences between the 2 wines: Sagrantino di Montefalco is very tannic and aggressive with a bouquet not too intense compared with the "Rosso di Montefalco" which has a more ample bouquet, given from the influence of the other grapes. The structure and tannins of Sagrantino allow a long aging for this wine up to 10-13 years.
The "Passito" is a particular typology of Sagrantino (it was actually the first style of wine to be produced at Montefalco) and very interesting to try. It is a sweet and tannic red! It is also a very structured red made 100% with Sagrantino which is naturally dried, after being harvested, on cane trellises for more than 2 months. Try it with the local "tozzetti" (a dry type of biscotto).
On my first day I visited 2 producers:
1) Rocca di Fabbri located in the jewel miniature town of Fabbri. Montefalco Rosso 2001 Sangiovese 65% Sagrantino 15% Cost: E9.50 at the estate, E15 at the store My score: 83/100 Intense bouquet: wet fur, tobacco, spices. Oak very well done. Medium body, long finish.
Faroaldo 2000 Sagrantino 50% Cabernet Sauvignon 50% Cost: E18 at the estate, E30 at the store My score: 88/100 Very intense and persistent bouquet. Cherry, flowers, vanilla. Great tannins, very long and elegant finish
Montefalco Sagrantino 1999 Sagrantino 100% Cost: E20 at the estate, E35 at the store My score: 80/100 Weak intensity at the nose. Earth and grass. Leather. Fine and fairly structured.
 Vineyards of Sagrantino at Rocca Di Fabbri estate.  My Ford Ka in the piazza of Fabbri below La Rocca.  Chased by wine..! 2) Scacciadiavoli Very very nice estate, from an architectural, archeological and technological aspect. I had an interesting and educational tour with Mr. Paolo who was nice to work overtime to show me the cellars. This is a growing estate, aiming to enlarge and export internationally (more than what they presently do). Did not taste anything.
 The wide entrance yard at Azienda Scacciadiavoli  Inox at Scacciadiavoli  Barriques with Sagrantino 2003 resting at Scacciadiavoli. This wine will be released to the consumer market on the 1st of June 2006. My first day in Umbria ended in an enoteca/pizzeria. Dinner with pizza! Yes, I had pizza, but a special one... it was topped with grana (a hard cheese like parmigiano), porcini mushrooms, rucola (a typical bitter salad) and an interesting touch: walnuts. I have to admit that it works pretty well with my glass of Sagrantino Le Mura Saracene 1999. Tannic at the right level for the oily porcini and with a beautiful softness given by the 2 years of oak which matches the bitterness of the salad and of the walnuts. Impressive!
Ciao! until next time. |
| Copyright ©2006 Antonio Mauriello |
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