In the heart of Barbera
I know this is going to be my last day visiting wineries and vineyards. My Italian trip is coming to an end. My energies are diminishing. So is my money (..!). That's OK... after all,..I am satisfied..
I left the tour of Alto Monferrato region for these last days because I knew it was close enough to Cremolino, where I am spending these last days, so I could depart from here. Even if it is Monferrato, where I have been before, it is located south of Asti and east of the Barolo/Barbaresco Langhe. The main town is Nizza Monferrato.
I organized this day trip in a way so I can visit as much as I can in a day (as usual, right?) in a loop, without passing twice from the same area.
The itinerary follows most of the wine routes of the area, right in the middle of the geographical square delimited by Asti, Barolo, Acqui Terme, and Alessandria.
The landscape is similar to the Monferrato I visited a few days ago. Main goal for me is to understand more about small native varieties such as Ruche and Brachetto and to be able to "navigate" comfortably enough in the universe of Barbera.
The first winery I stopped at was Ca' dei Mandorli. Unfortunately I could not tour the estate or taste wines because the persons responsible were not there.
The interesting wine library at Ca' dei Mandorli
The other producer I have visited in the morning is Da Capo in Agliano Terme. It is a young estate, established in 1997 producing excellent results in high quality wine.
Tasting notes:
1) Ruche di Castagnole Monferrato Majoli 2003. Price at the store: Euro 9. My score: 84/100.
2) Barbera d'Asti Sanbastian 2003. Price at the store: Euro 5. My score: 84/100.
3) Barbera d'Asti Superiore Nizza DOC Vigna Dacapo 2000. Price at the store: Euro 10. My score: 90/100.
4) Monferrato DOC 2001 (33% Barbera, 33% Merlot, 33% Nebbiolo). Price at the store: Euro 12. My score: 88/100.
Then I went to the center town of Agliano Terme and stopped at an interesting building where lots of Wine Associations have their main office: Strade del vino Astigiane (Asti's wine roads), Barolo&Co (a journal on Barolo), Association of Tourism of Wine and a School of Tourism. I came out with another ton of papers and brochures!!
Just to remember all the names of the businesses, I took this picture at the entrance of the building!
I am in Agliano Terme center right now, near the castle, having a pizza lunch. I am typing these notes on my Palm under a big tree, which is sharing its big shade with me and my car, protecting us from today's cooking 36 degrees Celsius!
Town after town, village after village (I went by a total of 21 villages today...), I came across the castle of Costigliole Monferato. I discovered that this castle hosts an International cooking school (ICIF) where chefs from all over the world train in Italian cooking. I was able to tour the school and to attend a class of hand-making pasta specifically for Japanese chefs.
Costigliole d'Asti's castle, housing the ICIF
A lesson of hand made pasta for Japanese chefs
The school also features a modern wine lab with sophisticated tasting station
La Braida was my last visit to a wine maker during this Italian extravaganza. It is a world known winery and a big producer (almost half a million bottles). It regularly exports to Canada. They are located in the village of Rocchetta Tanaro. Their cellars are very modern.
It was a pleasure to be able to taste different high-end Barbera and Brachetto.
After the tasting I had an interesting conversation with Raffaella Bologna (one of the owners) about Canada, Canadian customs and importing rules.
Tasting notes:
1) Grignolino d'Asti 2003. Price at the store: Euro 7. My score 81/100.
2) Barbera d'Asti Montebruna. Price at the store: Euro 7. My score 78/100.
3) Monferrato Rosso Il Baciale' 2002 (Barbera 80%, Pinot Nero 15%, Cabernet Sauvignon 5%). Price at the store: Euro 14. My score 88/100.
4) Barbera Bricco dell'uccellona 2000. Price at the store: Euro 42. My score 92/100.
5) Barbera Bricco della Bigotta 2000. Price at the store: Euro 42. My score 90/100.
6) Moscato d'Asti Vigna Senza Nome 2002. Price at the store: Euro 10. My score 82/100.
7) Brachetto d'Acqui 2002. Price at the store: Euro 12. My score 85/100.