These last days of my journey are going really fast. Therefore I decided to slow them down as much as I can.
I feel that I have, by now, a deep understanding of all the different wine areas of Piemonte. I still believe it is the most difficult region of Italy to study, because of its variety. Yet, one of the most interesting and complete. I am sure I will carry with me this knowledge and experience forever.
The best way to slow down time, for me, is to do nothing. This comes very difficult since I am always on the run... Go go go... Been there, done that, what's next?
This time I forced myself to stay put and I think I am doing quite a good job... Picture this: a light breeze is caressing me while looking at the vineyards after a tasteful lunch based on "cucina piemontese/ligure" from my host Laura. This is what I am doing now, while writing these notes.
This "cascina" is surrounded by a paradise of green hills and vineyards and I am always treated in the best way, by a generous homemade menu created with the energy and passion of Laura's proud Italian Genovese spirit.
My friend Laura is busy preparing one of her own specialties: Crostata
Another one of Laura's specialty: Agnolotti con Dolcetto
During these days, I found time to reorganize all my notes, I learnt how to prepare the authentic "pesto alla genovese", I tasted "real" milk from "real" cows during visits to "real" local farms and toured other wineries. I also went for a tour of the towns of Cremolino and Acqui Terme and I spent a full day back in the Alto Monferrato area near Nizza Monferrato because I wanted to visit a few more producers of Barbera (see separate article - GWL032).
The pretty town of Cremolino
The castle of Cremolino is now a private residence
The "real milk" experience, I previously mentioned, is something special I want to talk about. I had almost forgotten what real milk tastes like, after all the industrial processes it goes through in this modern era. I had the opportunity of travelling back in time, and taste a real strong authentic milk! The cows here are typical "Piemontese" race, one of the most ancient and one of the best in the world known for their milk and for their lean meat. In fact a typical antipasto from Piemonte is the raw meat produced with the best and healthiest Piemontese cows.
The sweet delicacy of Brachetto
I wanted to get closer to a wine that I had known for a while: the Brachetto. It is produced with the homonym native grape, Brachetto. It is light, sweet, fragrant and delicate comparable to a Moscato however with a hint of tannins, more acidity and a fine bouquet of strawberry and musk. It is usually produced in a sparkling version and it is very pleasant to drink either as aperitif or as dessert wine. A very pleasant summer drink!
Brachetto d'Acqui received the DOCG in 1996 and it is mainly produced in this area where Acqui Terme is the main town.
I visited a main producer in the area, who is also known for good Barbera.
Cantine Marenco in the town of Strevi (Alessandria)
1) Dolcetto d'Acqui Marchesa 2001. Prices at the store: Euro 12. My score: 78/100.
2) Barbera d'Acqui Bassina 2001. Prices at the store: Euro 10. My score: 84/100.
3) Barbera d'Asti Ciresa 1999. Very rich on the nose, this wine goes through the malolactic fermentation in small oak barrels. Prices at the store: Euro 25. My score: 85/100.
4) Moscato d'Asti Scrapona 2003. Prices at the store: Euro 9. My score: 81/100.
The balance tends to be on the sweet side with a low acidity/effervescence.
5) Brachetto d'Acqui Pineto 2003. Prices at the store: Euro 15. My score: 86/100.
Balanced, fresh, fine.
The "Bollito Misto"
One of the culinary specialties of this region that deserves a special note is a meat dish made of different parts of the cow, boiled and garnished with a green aromatic vegetable sauce. The "Bollito Misto" literally translated into "Boiled Mixed" includes several parts of the head of the cow (cheeks, tongue) and the upper shoulders. I had to try this local specialty, so I went to a restaurant where the chef cut small pieces of the parts that you want from the main piece right in front of you on a cart. It is mainly a winter dish. Very tasty. What an experience!