The incredible splendor of the Rabaja
Rabaja..this name sounds as if it has just come out from an Oriental fable. The entire atmosphere of this part of Piemonte is just too mystical! The tiny tiny village of Barbaresco, which gives the name to a so popular region and to a super popular wine, just doesn't seem real. Not to mention the hill of Rabaja! This hill carpeted with vineyards, melting in an ocean of green, enjoys one the best exposures in the region. A Southwestern sun kisses this land almost for the entire day, silently aiding and abetting the production of one among the most expensive wines in the world.
The luxurious "Rabaja" hill. I am facing South East while taking this pictures. This shows the great South West exposure of these vineyards.
Every hill is a vineyard, every house is a wine producer. In this month of June everything seems more magical. The sun is already strong and the heat is powering the soil and the little grapes. In this moment it is 2 in the afternoon. I only hear the sound of the "cicale", a cute insect as big as a small bird that lives on big trees and emits a typical chirping, humming sound. I am having an espresso in the town of Barbaresco on a terrace looking down the hills.
My coffee break on a terrace in the town of Barbaresco
The Barbaresco DOCG area includes only four townships: Barbaresco, Treiso, Neive, San Rocco Seno d'Elvio. All the Nebbiolo vineyards located within these four towns' borders can produce the Barbaresco.
I visited three producers, which are listed below, and the Enoteca Regionale, which I would literally call a "wine dome". It is located inside a church right in the main piazza of the town of Barbaresco. Definitely a unique site!!!
A wine dome: the Enoteca Regionale del Barbaresco.
That evening I had one of the best meals. This time, it wasn't for the food or wine, even if food and wine are definitely not to be forgotten -- I had a glass of Montaribaldi Roero Arneis 2003 with risotto and a glass of Barbaresco Carlo Giacosa Montefico 2000 with the lamb.
The award goes, this time, to the location of the restaurant. One of the best views I could ever possibly imagine. I felt like being in a plane or on a panoramic tower. I stayed at the restaurant until past sunset which, of course, set right in front of my eyes, painting red my large balloon glass with the last drop of Barbaresco I saved for this..
A group of bright fireflies were dancing in the dark night in front of my table, making the entire experience a unique unforgettable moment of my life.
PRODUCERS VISITED
Giuseppe Cortese
1) Dolcetto d'Alba Trifolera. Price at the store: Euro 7. My score: 79/100
2) Barbera Alba 2001. Price at the store: Euro 10. My score: 80/100
3) Barbera d'Alba Morassina 2000. Price at the store: Euro 14. My score: 84/100
4) Langhe Nebbiolo 2001. Price at the store: Euro 14. My score: 86/100
5) Barbaresco Rabaja' 2000. Price at the store: Euro 22. My score: 95/100.
Produttori del Barbaresco
Very good structure and longevity potential for these inexpensive Barbaresco produced by a cooperative of local estates.
Here I had the privilege of a vertical tasting: 4 years of Barbaresco and a 2001 Langhe Nebbiolo
1) Langhe Nebbiolo 2002. Price at the store: Euro 7. My score: 82/100
2) Barbaresco 2000. Price at the store: Euro 16. My score: 88/100
3) Barbaresco 1999. Price at the store: Euro 18. My score: 92/100
4) Barbaresco 1998. Price at the store: Euro 16. My score: 89/100
5) Barbaresco 1996. Price at the store: Euro 18. My score: 88/100
According to the local producers, 1999, 1997, 1996, 1990 were fabulous years, while 1984, 1987, 1992, 1994 were the worst.
Vertical Tasting of 4 Barbaresco from "Produttori del Barbaresco"
Moccagatta
1) Langhe Chardonnay 2003. Price at the store: Euro 8. My score: 80/100
2) Langhe Chardonnay Buschet 2001. Price at the store: Euro 16. My score: 84/100
3) Barbaresco Basarin 2001 - Basarin vineyards are in the village of Neive a more sandy soil. Price at the store: Euro 31. My score: 96/100
4) Barbaresco Basarin 2000. Price at the store: Euro 35. My score: 94/100
5) Barbaresco Bric Balin 2001 - vineyards are near the house in the village of Barbaresco - with a more argyle soil. Price at the store: Euro 31. My score: 96/100
6) Barbaresco Cole 2001 - vineyards are right in the village of Barbaresco - with a more argyle soil. Price at the store: Euro 34. My score: 91/100
The entrance of Gaja winery located right in the center of Barbaresco village.