I spent the morning at the Enoteca Regionale of Monferrato in the historical centre of Vignale Monferrato. As I explained before, an Enoteca Regionale is a kind of "wine library" where all the producers of the area showcase their wines. It is a real treat, because you can find lots of products in one place. This Enoteca is located in the beautiful historical Palazzo Callori dating back to the XV century, and it displays wines from 34 producers. The setting is, of course, breath taking. This ancient, humid, dark cellar makes me feel closer to those ancient days, when cellars used to host wine and food feasts as well as torture chambers...!

The host Deborah, professionally welcomed me and walked me through the history of this enchanting place. Then we started the tasting together with a couple of Sommeliers from France.

I tasted the following 3 wines:
1) Monferrato Casalese Cortese Bricco Mondalino 2002 Deep straw yellow is delicate on the nose with touches of pineapple and white flowers. My score: 78/100. Price at the store: Euro 5

2) Piemonte Chardonnay 2001 Marco Canato Bric di Bric My score: 84/100. Price at the store: Euro 11

3) Cantine Valpane Barbera del Monferrato 1999 My score: 85/100. Price at the store: Euro 20

I then went for lunch at the local Trattoria Serenella right in the Vignale's piazza, two steps from Palazzo Callori. I had, as "antipasto", a light, tasty, mouth watering "vitello tonnato" (slices of veal finely cut with a creamy tuna sauce) and, as "primo" "Risotto ai Funghi Porcini" (a creamy super tasting beauty of a risotto!!!)

A short drive from the historical center brought me to visit a grappa distillery:

Antica Distilleria Altavilla, where the owner proudly showed me all of the historical collection items and the machinery to make grappa.

He walked me through the ancient rooms of the complex and talked about the history of the place. I don't usually taste distillates, and I did not taste anything there. However, it was definitely, a valuable experience!

On the same road, just 2 km away, lies another treasure. This time..yes I tasted wines! It is the Wine Estate La Scamuzza located on top of a steep country road that made my little car suffer a bit.. Nessun problema! It made it perfectly intact!

The owner Laura greeted me professionally and spent some time with me even if I did not call in advance. This is a fairly new producer that is making its way ahead among hundreds of competitors.

Here are the notes of my tasting:
1) Tumas 2002 (Grignolino 100%) My score: 78/100. Price at the store: Euro 10

2) Barbera del Monferrato Baciami Subito 2002 My score: 80/100. Price at the store: Euro 10

3) Monferrato Rosso Bricco San Tommaso 2002 My score: 84/100. Price at the store: Euro 12

4) Barbera del Monferrato Superiore Vigneto dell'Amorosa 2001 My score: 86/100. Price at the store: Euro 15

5) Barbera del Monferrato Superiore Vigneto dell'Amorosa 2000 My score: 84/100. Price at the store: Euro 15

On the way back to Tenuta Colonna, I visited the last producer of the day. It was a bit late, almost 5 pm, and I was ready not to be greeted.

I was wrong! Wine maker Silvio Morando owner of the homonym winery, was happy to chat with me about the insides of the area of Vignale in which his family has its roots. He is also a proud producer of Grignolino and he would be very happy if this type of wine had better results overseas in North America. He and his wife Tiziana which also owns the business, treated me with a superb tasting and a plate of Parmigiano on the side. As usual, though, I taste before food, so I can assign a fair score consistently with all the other tasting. Then I have food, and the Parmigiano with Silvio's products worked beautifully, balanced in the mouth!

The tasting:
1) Grignolino 2003 served at fridge temp My score: 84/100. Cost at the estate: Euro 4

2) Grignolino 2001 My score: 80/100. Cost at the estate: Euro 4

3) Barbera 2003 just bottled very pleasant uncommon sweet touch at the end. My score: 86/100. Cost at the estate: Euro 4

4) Pinot nero 1999 fermented in new barrique, and aged 3 years in barrique My score: 88/100. Cost at the estate: Euro 5.50

5) Barbera Le Coste 2001 old vineyard long maceration, long aging 2 yrs in big barrel, non filtered, not produced in 2002 My score: 90/100. Cost at the estate: Euro 7

Silvio was kind to drive me for a tour of his vineyards with his old car, which, as I have seen before, he only uses to go to the fields! He showed me all the new implants of Pinot and Chardonnay, as well as the fifty year old vines of Grignolino and Barbera.

I wrapped my day at 8 o'clock, tired and very satisfied. I only had a "panino" in a bar during an evening of musical entertainment and local dances in the village's piazza.

Tomorrow I will be leaving Vignale, which hosted me for 3 wonderful days. I will carry with me great memories of this place, of its stone streets and of its people with their powerful energy in promoting and in maintaining healthy all of their heritage and treasures.