A splendid awakening looking at the blue "Lago Maggiore" lake and at the green forests around it….the "Canadian" landscape that I am starting to miss...
I crossed the river Sesia leaving the province of Novara, going west into the province of Vercelli, very famous in Italy for its big production of rice.
My target was the town of Gattinara, featuring a small but very well known Italian DOCG: the Gattinara made with the local grown Nebbiolo grape.
Town of Gattinara: the main "corso"
Unfortunately I discovered that the Enoteca Regionale of Nebbiolo is closed on Monday (today's date), with my big disappointment, because it was not mentioned in my guide.
Enoteca Regionale del Nebbiolo
The first producer I visited was Nervi. A fairly big estate in an historical estate right in the center of the village of Gattinara. They own 33% of the entire Gattinara vineyards.
The following notes are about the tasting:
1) Gane' 2002 (Nebbiolo Chardonnay)
An interesting white wine balanced and well structured. My score: 82/100
2) Amore 2002 (Nebbiolo 50%, plus a blend of Cabernet and Merlot)
Only the Nebbiolo is aged in oak big casks. The bouquet is of medium intensity, and the Nebbiolo's scents of violets and cherries is lightly present.
Price at the cellar: Euro 5. My score: 78/100
3) Coste della Sesia DOC Spanna 2001. (Nebbiolo 85%, the rest is a blend of the other native varieties - Bonarda, Vespolina, Croatina). Intense bouquet. Warm and still fruity in the mouth, already presents spices and liquorice, typical of an older one. A bit lacking in tannins.
Price at the cellar: Euro 6.50. My score: 85/100.
4) Gattinara 1998 (Nebbiolo 90%, Bonarda 5%, Vespolina 5%) aged in oak casks for 3 years.
The typical "brick-red" of the Nebbiolo is fairly noticeable here. Cherry jam and red flowers on the nose. In the mouth is warm, fairly tannic and well structured.
Price at the cellar: Euro 11.50. My score: 87/100.
5) Gattinara Vigneto Molsino 1998 (Nebbiolo 100%) aged in oak casks for 4 years.
This comes from the "cru" vines called "Vigneti Molsino" located at 400m. of altitude. I visited this vineyard and realized that it is shaped like an amphitheater.
The wine features an intense and persistent bouquet with notes of cherry jam and tobacco. I left some in the glass and when I came back from the tour of the cellars, I found with pleasure intense notes of liquorice. Tannins are more remarkable in this typology. Still very young.
Then I passed by Antoniolo producer, which is also located right in the village.
1) Coste della Sesia DOC Nebbiolo Juvenia 2002
2) Gattinara
3) Gattinara Vigneto San Francesco
ANTONIOLO ESTATE
Anzivino is a young producer just added to the few historical ones in Gattinara. The estate also features an agriturismo restaurant and B&B.
1) Bramaterra 2000 (Nebbiolo and Croatina 30%) My score: 87/100. Price at the estate: Euro 14.
2) Gattinara 1999. My score: 89/100. Price at the estate: Euro 11.
3) Tarlo Rosso 2000. (Nebbiolo, Vespolina, Bonarda). My score: 89/100. Price at the estate: Euro 7.
ANZIVINO's B&B
My last and best visit of the day was to the Travaglini family where I had the greatest and warmest welcome. I spent almost 3 hours with them. I spoke with the father Giancarlo, the wise owner who has always worked here. He described to me how difficult it is, year after year, to obtain that intensity of color that I found in his wines. As we all know, Nebbiolo does not give a great intensity of color to the wine. Giancarlo's daughter Cinzia led me down to the huge cellars and the barricaia and led my tasting of all 4 labels they produce. Then, cherry on the cake, Cinzia's husband Massimo, drove me in his world: the vineyards of Gattinara. Travaglini owns a big percentage of vine area in Gattinara. I had a great time with Massimo who, at the end of his hard working day (it was 7 pm), patiently and professionally, showed me all the hidden hills where his majesty the Nebbiolo growths strongly. The best part was watching him drive his modified Wolkswagen in country roads right inside the vineyards up and down steep hills where only tractors would go!
Great afternoon!
Here are my tasting notes:
1) Proposta 2002 (Nebbiolo 90%, Bonarda e Vespolina 10%)
Rubin red, slightly brick red. Sapidity and tannins are typical. No wood is used for this wine.
Price at the store: Euro 6. My score: 84/100
2) Gattinara 2000 (Nebbiolo 100%)
The color of this Nebbiolo is deeper and more intense than other producers. The owner who is the father and enologo told me that the method of vinification is all it counts. Also a good year counts. After 30 years of trials, they have finally achieved what they wanted. Good job!
Price at the store: Euro 15. My score: 88/100.
3) Gattinara Riserva 1998 Nebbiolo 100%
Price at the store: Euro 22. My score: 90/100.
4) Gattinara Tre Vigne 1999. Nebbiolo 100% 3 years of aging.
Powerful at the nose with hints of spices and jam mixed in a complex bouquet. Very warm and pleasantly tannic in the mouth with a very long finish of wild berries and mint.
Price at the store: Euro 22. My score: 92/100.
Nebbiolo Vineyards in Gattinara
A wonderful day!
An intense day!
To finish in beauty, I had a tasteful dinner experience at a local Trattoria on the ground floor of my "albergo" where I spent the night.
Ehi.. I have been missing describing my dinner's courses.. So: back to it!
1. Main course (primo piatto): Risotto al gattinara. It is a "risotto" made in a standard way with a reduction of Gattinara wine. Very tasty, with a pleasant bitter finish. A specialty.
2. Side dish (Contorno): Mixed grilled vegetables
3. Cheese Platter: a special cheese of the area called Toma. I tried a newer, fresher cut and an aged one. Worked well with the wine even if the intense smell of the cheese "killed" a bit the wine's bouquet.
The wine: Orbello 2000 Coste della Sesia DOC Azienda Agricola Sella - Lessona A blend of Cabernet and Barbera.. (yes, I got tired of Nebbiolo. I mean....just for today!)