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GWL Day 17 - From Monza (LOMBARDIA) to Ghemme and Arona (PIEMONTE) (168 km)



Location: BlogsAntonio MaurielloVisiting Italy as a Tourist    
Posted by: Antonio Mauriello 6/20/2004 9:22 AM
The GWL - Day 17On the road again...

After a well-deserved break, I am more than willing to be on the move again. My desire to learn, to see, to discover is now strong again. Time to go. Time to say goodbye to my best friends who put up with me for 10 long days...

I left this morning from their home in Monza (near Milano) and after less than 1 hour driving west, I was in the Novara area in the region of Piemonte. Visiting Piemonte is one of the best dream-come-true opportunities for a wine lover. It has always been one of my sought-after trips that I have never done. During the past days, I had planned my itinerary carefully, and I realized how impossible it is to see everything. I will keep my focus on native grape varieties, but I also want to immerge myself in the areas where the known Nebbiolo and Barbera (the fathers of the great and superior Piemontese reds) are grown.

Two of my preferred wines among all the Italians are the 2 DOCG of this area: Ghemme and Gattinara. Colli Novaresi, Sizzano are other DOC of this area.

Nebbiolo takes its name from the spherical grapes wrapped in a thick layer of bloom, which fogs them over - the Italian for "fog" being "nebbia". The local name for Nebbiolo is "Spanna", the "Spinea grape" described by Plinio n the first century, "quae sola alitur nebulis", "which takes its only nourishment from fog".
Other local native grapes are:
- (red) "Uva rara" (rare grape) or also "Bonarda Piemontese" takes its name from the fact that it has a sparse grape.
- (red) Vespolina
- (white) Greco di Ghemme (Erbaluce grown here)

The first producer I visited was a family-run organic estate: Bianchi, located in the town of Sizzano right attached to Ghemme. Ghemme gives the name to one of the few Italians DOCG: Ghemme, which is a fairly new DOCG, dated 1997. The professional and welcoming Sommelier, Roberto, made me feel comfortable right away. I sat down in a room and he opened 2 whites, 4 reds and a Passito. Then we went for a tour of the estate, agriturismo and cellars. The business also operates a small restaurant featuring local meat specialties raised in their yard such as ducks and rabbits.



Tasting notes to follow:

WHITES:

1) Erbaluce Colline Novaresi 2003

2) Eloise Bianco 2001 (50% Erbaluce in steel, 50% Chardonnay in barrique)

The interesting native variety here is Erbaluce. Its origin is in the Ivrea area (50 km more west than here). Here is called Greco. Nothing to do with Greco di Tufo from Campania region, nothing to do with Grechetto from Umbria. Just another "Greco"....
The particular characteristic of this grape is a high softness or, seen from another point of view, a low acidity. If drank young, the wine is very balanced. Otherwise, it tends to appear too flat.

REDS

1) Sizzano DOC 1998 (Nebbiolo, Vespolina, Bonarda). Local small DOC. It is a ready to drink wine, almost in its descendent curve. The percentage of Nebbiolo allows a bit of aging for this drink-as-released wine. E11 80/100

2) Ghemme Colle Baraggiole 1996. (Nebbiolo, Vespolina, Bonarda) Still time to go for this blend of local variety from Colle Baraggiole vineyards. Tannins are solid and acidity still sustains greatfully the mix. E15 86/100

3) Gattinara 1997 (Nebbiolo 100%). E16 85/100

4) Primosole Rosso 2000. (Nebbiolo 30%, Barbera 30%, Merlot 40%). Very intense bouquet with excellent chocolate and coffee notes. Long sweet final. Excellent Price/Value E9 90/100

PASSITO

Erbaluce as well as Albana di Romagna and Lacrima already seen (see previous articles), also produces a "passito". The grapes are harvested and let dry over a kind of net outside in the sun, or, if the weather does not cooperate, the winemaker utilizes a special heated room (like a sauna).

Bianchi produces a Passito di Erbaluce called "Autunno degli Artisti" with a different label for each bottle sold. I found a very intense and persistent bouquet of dry figs and honey. The balance tends to go to the sweetness side, however it is not disturbing. I would say that it is a great meditation wine. E20 88/100

Then I visited the estate "Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo" ("Ancient Vineyards of Cantalupo"). The owner's family (Arlunno family) has lived here since 1550

Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo - Cellars under the vineyards
Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo - Cellars under the vineyards

Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo - Stainless Steel Vats
Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo - Stainless Steel Vats

Tasting:

1) Carolus 2002 (Greco 50%, Arneis 35%, Chardonnay 15%) My score: 80/100. Cost at the store: Euro 6.

2) Colline Novaresi Primigenia 2002 (Uva rara 55%, Nebbiolo 45%) My score: 78/100. Cost at the store: Euro 5

3) Colline Novaresi Agamium 2001 (Nebbiolo 100%). My score: 82/100. Cost at the store: Euro 7.

4) Collis Carella 1997. My score: 85/100. Cost at the store: Euro 24

5) Ghemme 1999 (Nebbiolo 100%). My score: 86/100. Cost at the store: Euro 15

6) Ghemme Collis Breclemae 1997 (Nebbiolo 100%). My score: 88/100. Cost at the store: Euro 24

7) Ghemme Signore di Bayard 1999 (Nebbiolo 100%). My score: 92/100. Cost at the store: Euro 23

None of this wine is aged in oak barrels (barriques) except for the last one, Ghemme Signore di Bayard 1999.

After this last visit I headed towards Gattinara on the other side of the river, ready to discovery the treasures in the province of Vercelli.

While driving I saw a sign, which said "Arona". I remember this town because I went 20 years ago on a High School trip.. I remember it was on a beautiful lake among trees and nature. So I decided to go for a detour. It was a great choice! The blue Lago Maggiore was so inviting and the town of Arona was so alive that I stayed for the evening. The sunset was amazing and the Alps on the background made me dream one more time..

How to take pictures when you are alone...
How to take pictures when you are alone...

Arona: the
Arona: the "lungolago" at sunset

Copyright ©2006 Antonio Mauriello
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