Later on, the "real" morning started after a good breakfast offered by the hotel and included with the room. Not a good start, though: I tried to visit 2 estates: Le Terrazze and Conte Dittajuti all near Monte Conero in Numana. No luck. The people working there were alone and could not assist me. Too bad. So, I went on, and followed the new "Rosso Conero Road" route that has been created to promote this DOC, which is believed to become soon a DOCG. The main grapes for Rosso Conero are Sangiovese and Montepulciano.

In this moment, I am on a marvelous beach in the town of Portonovo located on the north side of Monte Conero which features a green Caribbean transparent sea. Of course I am lying down looking at the horizon, like I often do. I have the steep wall of Monte Conero right above my head. I just went for a swim followed by the astonished look of the few people around. Yes, in May it may still be too cold for them...not for me (who has learnt to challenge the Canadian rivers and lakes...!)

Now it's 8.30 pm and I am writing again...guess where I am? Right... at a table of a restaurant! Last evening I had a break from restaurants (also to please my wallet...:-). I ate pizza in my hotel room outside the balcony with the best view I had so far in this trip! So, tonight, I deserve a treat. I mean a culinary treat. A dinner based on fish from the Adriatic! The locanda where I found a room is in the small village of Staffolo.

It is very convenient to stay in small country villages, because room prices drop drastically compared to cities or tourists location. For example last night I paid 50 Euro for the room. Tonight I am paying 30 Euro. And what a dinner I am having!!! "Spaghetti allo scoglio" with sea food in white sauce and fresh squeezed cherry tomatoes and a "grigliata mista di pesce" (mixed grilled fish plate). All of this, will cost only 20 Euro. I would never have such quality food at this price anywhere else! Let's not forget about wine. This is the land of Verdicchio a local grape that produces a crispy white "juice" to die for when matched with fish and seafood if prepared without a strong sauce or cream.

Ok....I'll stop (eventually) talking about my meals....:-)

Let's go back in time a few hours. This afternoon after a coffee at Portonovo beach, I left for Ancona, the capital city of the Marche region. It started raining, so I didn't visit any estates. I arrived to Ancona after a 30 minutes drive from Monte Conero. Ancona is a dynamic city with one of the busiest harbors of Italy. Then I turned left (west) towards inland. Destination Jesi. Another 30 minutes and I was there. A wonderful medieval town with super narrow streets (vicoli) and lots of history and arts. I walked there...didn't drive...

My point of focal interest was the "Enoteca delle Marche", a starting point for who wants to know more about Marche's food and wine. In the same building, there is also the office of the Sommelier Guild of Marche and a school for chefs. I spent more than 2 hours in that building!

6 pm: still raining. Back on the road. While driving towards Matelica, my next destination in the land of Verdicchio di Jesi, I bumped into an estate I wanted to visit. I was lucky this time. The owner himself was there and proudly presented me his babies. He opened new bottles and told me stories about making wines and Marche. Wonderful! Besides...this was only my first tasting of Verdicchio!!

Zaccagnini Estate

1) Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Salmagina 2003
E9.50 82/100
100% Verdicchio
Crisp and fresh, typical Verdicchio without wood. Grass and mineral scent at the nose. Almost salty in the mouth, this is a great wine for seafood.

2) Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Maestro di Staffolo Riserva
E14 85/100
100% Verdicchio from 3 different harvests.
Peach and citrus notes. Vanilla hints and a long finish.

3) Vigna Vescovi 2000
88/100
A blend of Sangiovese, Pinot Nero, Cabernet Sauvignon. Interesting bouquet with a tobacco and a smoky character. Very well balanced.