From Umbria to Marche. From mountains to sea.
I had an early awakening today: 7.30. I had to go to put money in the parking meter... In fact last night I parked in the piazza of the historical center of the town and walked to the hotel. It was a good excuse to get up early and have a nice breakfast. The smell of cornetti was all around me as soon as I walked out from the hotel's door...!
Then I went to the Strada del Sagrantino office to grab some literature. I walked around the main piazza (actually...the only one...) and I took some pictures at the many enoteche around it.
On my way to the estates, I passed by a treasure of a medieval town named Bevagna also part of the Sagrantino route. It is very hot. For me anyway. Temperature is above 20 degrees, therefore as a good now-Canadian, I wear shorts and sandals! No Italian wears shorts and sandals if not in a sea town or on holiday. Once again I am seen as a foreigner. I like it!
The medieval town of Bevagna and my small Ford KA (a great vehicle for the medieval streets!)
Then I started my cantine tour....
Azienda Madonna Alta I had a nice tour with the father of the owner. The building is new and the offices are very modern. The meeting room overlooks the vineyards. The cellars are still small and the estate is in an aggressive growing mood (like many in the area).
The Wines...
1) Grechetto 2002
74/100 E3.50
2) IGT Falconero 2001
76/100 E2.70 (grechetto 70% chardonnay 30%)
3) Rosso Montefalco 2002
86/100 E7
4) Sagrantino 1999
78/100 E15
The meeting room of Azienda Madonna Alta
Azienda Antonelli
Another interesting half hour tour of the premises.
I tasted 2 whites (Grechetto and Chardonnay), 1 Montefalco Rosso and 2 Sagrantino
Azienda Adanti. Only passed by. It was closed for lunch time (remember? Siesta from 1.30 to 3!)
3pm to 5pm
Azienda Arnaldo-Caprai
Tasting only as the cellars were in a restoration phase. This is one of the biggest estates. Its products are also listed in the Canadian Vintages Classic catalog.
The Wines...
1)Poggio Belvedere Grechetto 2002
80/100 E4.70
2) Montefalco Rosso 2001
82/100 E10.50
3) Sagrantino Collepiano 2000
86/100 E25
4) Sagrantino 25 anni 2000
90/100 E50
5) Rosso Outsider IGT 2000
90/100 E31
Azienda Sportoletti. Outside the Sagrantino area. In the Assisi DOC area located between Spello and Assisi. They feature a great Merlot/Cabernet IGT blend called Villa Fidelia Rosso and a nice Assisi Rosso
This day never ends....and I am still going full speed. It is 5 pm. Time for a relaxing espresso in Spello. Then, I turn on my GPS and laptop, and there I am. On the road again.
5pm to 7 pm
Through the Appennini mountains. From Umbria to Marche.
I am in a restaurant now, sitting at a table... one of many, reflecting about the day and writing these notes. I drove for just 70 km on a tortuous road through the mountains, and it looks like I went a lot further. The Marche landscape is different, the dialect is different and, of course, local wine and food are totally different.
Well...a new world to learn from for me! I am in the small town of Caccamo in the Serrapetrona area. This area is famous for another DOCG: The Vernaccia Di Serrapetrona. The DOCG has been achieved just recently and all the few producers of the area are moving forward with the goal of launching their product outside Marche. It is a different Vernaccia than the Oristano (Sardinia) or the San Gimignano one. It is a red grape and it is used to produce a sweet and also a sparkling wine! Part of the grapes are dried and added to the most in late December to obtain a second fermentation.
Back to my diary: when I registered in the hotel, I asked the lady when I could have something to eat at the local nice trattoria. She said "from 8".
I am seating now and it's 8. Of course the restaurant is empty. It will be full when I leave... I feel again like a foreigner...! I think I lost my Italian late-eating habits! I ordered "crostini della casa" (slice of bread with local cheese and truffle) and "arrosto misto": a plate of different meat. Unfortunately, just by myself, I cannot order a bottle of wine, chosen from the always interesting wine list. So, I have to rely on the "vino della casa" (house wine). I used the term "rely" because vino della casa is usually the weakest and cheapest of the list. Sometimes, though, I get nice surprises. Tonight, for example, I am having a local Sangiovese which has a nice structure and a complex bouquet. Let's see how it will work out with the arrosto misto... No, it doesn't work well with the fatty pork chop and with the lamb. The arrosto misto plate also has roast beef, chicken and "arrosticini" a specialty from Marche and Abbruzzo. It is a kebab of ox. Very tasty. I am skipping my after dinner espresso tonight. I will be in bed very soon!
A curiosity: 60% of the guests in the restaurant are smoking...
Good night.