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Visiting Italy as a Tourist



Author: Antonio Mauriello Created: 11/6/2006 11:41 AM
Join me as I embark on a 12 week journey, immersing himself in the wine towns, estates, cellars, wine bars, and "enoteca" stores to study and describe their rare attractions. After 7 years and a few months in Canada, I have decided to go back to visit Italy as tourist. To be more precise, April 26, 2004 flags the beginning of a 12 week trip in my home country in the name of wine. The focus of this trip will be visiting wine towns, estates, cellars and wine bars, and to immerse myself in all the "enoteca" stores to study and describe their rare attractions. In Italy, wines are sold anywhere. Therefore, small food boutiques, corner stores, large grocery chains and specialized wine stores (enoteche) all carry wines costing from a couple of Euros (table wines sold loose - bring your own bottle) to hundreds of Euro for the top Barolo or a Magnum of Tignanello. (1 Euro is almost equivalent to 1 US$).

GWL Day 27 - Tour of the Langhe-Barolo sub-region (PIEMONTE) (126 km)
By Antonio Mauriello on 6/30/2004 3:36 PM
The GWL 2004 - Day 27Compared to the four towns of the Barbaresco region, the Barolo DOCG area, which includes 11 townships, seems like an empire. A kingdom. Yes, it really is. Every one of the 11 towns shows off a castle. And each one of these castles is different in the architecture, size and age.
< ...
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GWL Day 26 - Tour of the Langhe-Barbaresco sub-region (PIEMONTE) (60 km)
By Antonio Mauriello on 6/29/2004 2:20 PM
The GWL 2004 - Day 26The incredible splendor of the Rabaja

Rabaja..this name sounds as if it has just come out from an Oriental fable. The entire atmosphere of this part of Piemonte is just too mystical! The tiny tiny village of ...
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GWL Day 25 - Tour of the Roero sub-region (PIEMONTE) (110 km)
By Antonio Mauriello on 6/28/2004 12:24 PM
The GWL 2004 - Day 25Roero is the first area of the three I decided to visit around Alba. You may find interesting the fact that I planned to visit Roero today, Langhe-Barbaresco tomorrow and Langhe-Barolo the day after tomorrow based on the closing weekday of their respective Enoteche Regionali. As you recall fr ...
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GWL Day 24 - Vignale Monferrato (PIEMONTE) - Asti - Alba (PIEMONTE (140 km)
By Antonio Mauriello on 6/27/2004 12:20 PM
Another native grape variety North of Asti: Ruche'

I am leaving Vignale Monferrato to change wine areas. It seems that in Piemonte, at every kilometer, there is a different DOC! The area I am entering now, interests me particularly because of a red grape variety cultivated h ...
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GWL Day 23 - Vignale Monferrato (PIEMONTE) Continued
By Antonio Mauriello on 6/26/2004 9:33 AM
The GWL - Day 23Touring Vignale

The day after I went for a walking tour of the village of Vignale. A beautiful town on the top of a hill dominating the surrounding vineyards.



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GWL Day 22 - Vignale Monferrato (PIEMONTE) (90 km)
By Antonio Mauriello on 6/25/2004 9:27 AM
The GWL - Day 22A tranquil day at Tenuta Colonna

The Tenuta Colonna estate is a paradise. A beautiful mansion with rooms, a family restaurant and a cellar for wine making. After breakfast, served in a warm ambiance with typical "locanda" furniture, I spent almost t ...
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GWL Day 21 - In the heart of Monferrato (PIEMONTE) From Cocconato to Vignale Monferrato (123 km)
By Antonio Mauriello on 6/24/2004 9:18 AM
The GWL - Day 21A small incident, happened as soon as I left the B&B, helped me to wake up completely. I left the car's trunk door unlocked and at the first turn, going uphill, the trunk opened completely and one of my bags crashed on the asphalt. Fortunately no car was behind me. So nothing in the bag was de ...
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GWL Day 20 - From Canavese to Monferrato (PIEMONTE) (91 km)
By Antonio Mauriello on 6/23/2004 9:02 AM
The GWL - Day 20A short drive through rice and corn fields brought me to the town of Roppolo with its beautiful castle of Serra, which hosts the Enoteca Regionale della Serra. Unfortunately this Wednesday morning it was closed. It opens only from Thursday to Sunday. No luck! So far I visited 2 enoteche in Piemont ...
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GWL Day 19 - From Gattinara to Canavese (PIEMONTE) (127 km)
By Antonio Mauriello on 6/22/2004 8:55 AM
The GWL - Day 19Tasting at "Enoteca del Nebbiolo"

Another reason that made me decide to stay in Gattinara was the desire to visit the Enoteca Regionale del Nebbiolo that is closed on Mondays (the day I arrived in Gattinara). So, this morning, Tuesday June 22, my first morning thought w ...
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GWL Day 18 - Gattinara (PIEMONTE) (61 km)
By Antonio Mauriello on 6/21/2004 8:30 AM
The GWL - Day 18A splendid awakening looking at the blue "Lago Maggiore" lake and at the green forests around it….the "Canadian" landscape that I am starting to miss...

I crossed the river Sesia leaving the province of Novara, going west into the province of Vercelli, very ...
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GWL Day 17 - From Monza (LOMBARDIA) to Ghemme and Arona (PIEMONTE) (168 km)
By Antonio Mauriello on 6/20/2004 9:22 AM
The GWL - Day 17On the road again...

After a well-deserved break, I am more than willing to be on the move again. My desire to learn, to see, to discover is now strong again. Time to go. Time to say goodbye to my best friends who put up with me for 10 long days...
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MiWine Day 3
By Antonio Mauriello on 6/16/2004 8:17 AM
MiWine Day 3The tasting that made my day: a vertical of Cervaro della Sala from Antinori

9 am - 1 pm
Producers visited in the morning on the show floor:

Montesissa Colli Piacentini - EMILIA ROMAGNA
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MiWine Day 2
By Antonio Mauriello on 6/15/2004 8:08 AM
MiWine Day 2After the success of yesterday afternoon's guided tasting, from my personal point of view, I wanted to start them as early as I could today as well. So, I registered for the earliest one right after lunch. As in Italian streets, here at the show between 1 pm and 2 pm, everybody is at lunch. The boo ...
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MiWine Day 1 - The first wine fair held in Milano (LOMBARDIA)
By Antonio Mauriello on 6/14/2004 7:59 AM
MiWine Day 1What else could be more thrilling!

I spent a wonderful weekend in Monza with my friends Maurizio and Daniela, who are giving me the best hospitality I could ever receive from a friend. Their 2-year old boy Ivan is a "train" at full speed all day long! ...
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GWL Day 16 - From Piacenza (EMILIA ROMAGNA) to Monza and Milano (LOMBARDIA) (135 km)
By Antonio Mauriello on 6/9/2004 7:55 AM
The GWL - Day 16Milano: the capital of the fashion world.

This day signs the end of the first part of my trip. I am now going to stay at a friend's house for about 10 days before continuing my "GLW".

Not that I am taking a vacation... actuall ...
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GWL Day 15 - Colli Piacentini (EMILIA ROMAGNA) (190 km)
By Antonio Mauriello on 6/8/2004 7:44 AM
The GWL - Day 15The tortuous high hills south of Piacenza.

Taro Valley:
Not a good night last night... Nothing to say against the hotel where I slept... or trying to... Unfortunatelly the hotel was located near a truck stop. Hundreds of trucks were maneuv ...
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GWL Day 14 - Reggio Emilia (212 km)
By Antonio Mauriello on 6/7/2004 7:41 AM
The GWL - Day 14An itinerary amongst Legends: from Ferrari to Parmigiano Reggiano.

A route with few natural beauties, but still very interesting. Away from hills and vineyards, today I am driving through many industrial areas and truck routes. A good exercise for my drivi ...
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GWL Day 13 - Bologna (73 km)
By Antonio Mauriello on 6/6/2004 7:12 AM
The GWL - Day 13Bologna: the capital of the home made pasta.

Tortellini, tortelli, tortelloni, ravioli, agnolotti are only a few of the names identifying the different varieties of "pasta fatta in casa", a great specialty of this region. Out from Romagna I am no ...
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GWL Day 12 - Ravenna (140 km)
By Antonio Mauriello on 6/5/2004 7:08 AM
The GWL - Day 12A day "off" to visit the art city of Ravenna.

It is the city of the Byzantine, in a time when everything was art. Churches with an oriental Orthodox touch were built in this city near Venezia and are now famous for its "mosaici". Scenes ...
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GWL Day 11 - Dozza-Faenza (EMILIA ROMAGNA) (100 km)
By Antonio Mauriello on 6/4/2004 6:56 AM
The GWL - Day 11

From Dozza to the Colli Bolognesi DOC

I am leaving Dozza in the morning ... but with a smile on my face ... I am not going away... I know I am going to come back later on to spend a last night here!< ...

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GWL Day 10 - Dozza (EMILIA ROMAGNA) (90 km)
By Antonio Mauriello on 6/3/2004 6:43 AM
The GWL - Day 10The enchanting beauty of Dozza

I learnt about the existence of this village because it hosts the Enoteca Regionale of Emilia Romagna. As you know, an Enoteca Regionale is a place where we can find all the wines of the region and where we can taste a good ...
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GWL Day 9 - Rimini-Dozza (EMILIA ROMAGNA) (197 km)
By Antonio Mauriello on 6/2/2004 6:27 AM
The GWL - Day 9

Emilia Romagna: wine, food, women, cars...

Today is cloudy and rainy... good, because I am planning to leave the coastline and move inland, so I won't be spreading many tears during the sad &quo ...

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GWL Day 8 - Pesaro-Rimini (EMILIA ROMAGNA) (78 km)
By Antonio Mauriello on 6/1/2004 6:21 AM
The GWL - Day 8From Marche to Romagna

In the morning I kept driving north passing through a park in a rocky promontory. There were few nice spots here for pictures, high on the sea with a beautiful scenery.

Then, the road t ...
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GWL Day 7 - Morro d'Alba-Colli Pesaresi (MARCHE) (161km)
By Antonio Mauriello on 5/31/2004 6:04 PM
The GWL 2004 - Day 7Resting my tasting buds!

After yesterday's tour-de-force, I took a bit of rest. I took advantage of my vicinity with my beloved sea and I swam, suntanned, relaxed. By doing so, I also rested my tasting buds... a more than deserved break! ...
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GWL Day 6 - Matelica-Morro d'Alba (MARCHE) (119 km)
By Antonio Mauriello on 5/30/2004 4:51 PM
The GWL 2004 - Day 6

From Verdicchio to Lacrima di Morro d'Alba: in the land of 2 native upraising.

On Sunday May 30, every region in Italy hosted a popular yearly event called: "Cantine Aperte". Almost all producers, wineries, est ...

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GWL Day 5 - Staffoli to Matelica (50 km)
By Antonio Mauriello on 5/29/2004 5:35 PM
The GWL 2004 - Day 5Looking for a white wine to age in your cellar? Try Verdicchio di Matelica!

Very cloudy and wet today...It rained all day. This was a shame because I took lots of scenic roads and mountain passes. At the highest pass, my GPS was reading 1,200 mt of altitud ...
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GWL Day 4 - Monte Conero to Ancona to Jesi to Staffolo (MARCHE) (106 km)
By Antonio Mauriello on 5/28/2004 5:23 PM
The GWL 2004 - Day 4From the sea back to the mountains in the heart of Verdicchio.

I left the window blinds up last night, so I could be awaken by the first daylight. So it was. A pleasant awakening. 5.30 am. The sky was pink and yellow and a red, red, red ball was coming out ...
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GWL Day 3 - Serrapetrona-Conero (MARCHE) (122 km)
By Antonio Mauriello on 5/27/2004 6:58 AM
The GWL - Day 3A new promising DOCG in the wine region of Marche: Vernaccia di Serrapetrona.

A "take-it-easy" morning...!

I woke up at 9 am and hit the road at 10.00. After a short 10 km drive up to the mountain, I reached the first of the produ ...
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GWL Day 2 - Montefalco Bevagna Foligno (UMBRIA) to Serrapetrona (MARCHE) (134 km)
By Antonio Mauriello on 5/26/2004 7:47 AM
The GWL - Day 2From Umbria to Marche. From mountains to sea.

I had an early awakening today: 7.30. I had to go to put money in the parking meter... In fact last night I parked in the piazza of the historical center of the town and walked to the hotel. It was a good excuse to ...
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GWL Day 1, Roma Montefalco (UMBRIA) (231 km)
By Antonio Mauriello on 5/25/2004 6:54 AM
The GWL 2004 - Day 1The king of the tannins: Sagrantino di Montefalco.
A nice 2-hour drive from my parent's home in Ostia (20 km from Rome on the Tirreno sea), brought me to the heart of Umbria. My first itinerary was "La strada del Sagrantino" ("The road of Sagrantino&qu ...
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The GWL 2004????
By Antonio Mauriello on 5/25/2004 6:51 AM
The GWL 2004 Today, Tuesday May 25, 2004, I am beginning what I baptized "GWL". I must be a true North American now, since I like acronyms! GWL = Great Wine Loop.

During the next 6 weeks I will visit some regions of North and Center Italy without coming back to Rome. This journey will b ...
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3 days at Montalcino: the cradle of Brunello
By Antonio Mauriello on 5/13/2004 9:24 AM
2 Days at Montalcino There are things in life that are extremely difficult to explain: finding the right words as well as reproducing the experienced emotions are great challenges. This happens to me every time I want to talk to somebody and narrate about Tuscany. Hard work. You have to be there to understand ...
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Italy: A country of cellphones
By Antonio Mauriello on 5/12/2004 6:10 AM
A country of cellphones Being in a public space is definitely different from what I remember 7 years ago. Sounds are different. People are different. They talk, talk, and talk. They communicate everywhere in the frenetic search for somebody to tell something to.

With the desperate n ...
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Are great Italian wines really expensive?
By Antonio Mauriello on 5/9/2004 1:51 AM
Are Great Italian Wines Really Expensive On May 9, 2004, more that 150 of the "Vini Intelligenti" were presented at the "Citta del Gusto" in Rome.

Guess: I HAD TO BE THERE!!!

"Vini Intelligenti" literally translates " ...
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Full immersion
By Antonio Mauriello on 5/4/2004 4:59 AM
Full ImmersionAfter a few days of readaptation and relaxation at my parents' apartment, I was ready to face the big challenge: a full three morning-to-night day immersions in the world known as Roman traffic!

I was very surprised for not having lost any of my driving ...
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A day at La Citta' del Gusto
By Antonio Mauriello on 5/1/2004 7:55 AM
What a name! City of Taste!

An entire building devoted to food and wine! I could certainly say that I wouldn't mind to live in it...! It is my Disneyland....

It is a modern structure build in 1999 and it has 4 floors with a wine bar, a cooking school, bookstore and the "Theatre of Kitchen": lla creme de la creme. It is a big hall shaped like a theatre. On the stage, wine and food classes are demonstrated are featured. ...
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Any Italian wine around here?
By Antonio Mauriello on 4/29/2004 6:39 AM
Yes, wines in Italy are ... Italian. By saying so, I mean that it is VERY difficult to find a store with international wines. Italy DOES NOT import wine. Which makes sense somehow, being the country with biggest wine exportation.

HOWEVER...

For me it is strange, since now I got used to the wonderful Canadian variety offered by Vintages, the world's biggest importer of wine. Talking about variety...I am lost in all the dif ...
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Ahhhh...espresso
By Antonio Mauriello on 4/27/2004 3:48 AM
Ahhhh...espressoThe art of "creating" and "serving" a simple cup of coffee. Simple because... it is in the mind of each Italian when we first open our eyes in the morning.

The coffee mania is happening to me again after just a few days. My first morning thought goes to the bar ...
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